Do the rest of the belts like the water and alternator they are still working when I crank the car…should they not be working?
or the timing belt works independent from the others?
I also check the distributor rotor and it’s not spining with the cap off…. that’s why I think it’s the tming belt…
Any help will be appreciated…
Yes, it’s the timing belt. The accessory belts are driven from the crankshaft. The timing belt is driven from the crankshaft as well and turn the camshaft/s. The distributor is also usually driven off the camshaft. So if the distributor is not turning, the camshaft is not turning, and the belt is broken. The same holds true for timing chains as well. Usually the chain will not break, but the teeth will wear off of the gears bolted to the camshaft or the crankshaft.
Posted: 29th October 2013 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Engine
I have a Ford F-150 1995 model it has a 302 in it. My question is, it keeps overheating I change the water pump about 6 months ago, it has a new thermostat also, the water wasn’t circulating in the radiator so I flushed it 3 times took it out and made sure everything was washed out of it, so I put it back in and the water is moving through it just fine now, so I figured I had the problem fixed well I don’t its still running hot . Do you have any idea what else it could be that’s making it run hot? I’m baffled and out of ideas. Hope you can help thanks. – Kirk
Here are the steps I use when diagnosing an overheating issue…
1. Check the radiator cap with a tester. A bad radiator cap will keep pressure from building and can cause an engine to overheat.
2. Pressurize the cooling system and check for leaks.
3. Have the hoses been changed lately? A soft radiator hose can collapse and restrict flow of coolant to the engine.
4. If the radiator was plugged and required a flush, maybe the engine has a blockage as well. Was any radiator stop-leak product used in the past? They can cause issues with head gasket coolant passages and other tight areas.
5. I have had brand new water pumps fail shortly after install. It’s possible that at higher RPMs the impeller is spinning on the shaft, reducing coolant flow.
6. Check airflow, fan clutch or electric fan if equipped.
Overheating issues can be a real pain to diagnose. Many shops and owners just start replacing until they find the culprit.
Posted: 28th October 2013 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Cooling, Engine
I have a 2003 Ford Taurus 3.0L V6 Engine, when I have my car in idle it runs rough and the RPM’s stay at 700, when I put it into drive it hesitates, if I put the a/c on the RPM’s vary between 300-700 and then stalls out. I had routine maintance done recently, (oil change, air filter replaced,and tires rotated).The backpressure sensor was replaced,less than a year ago I had a tune up done.
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Posted: 23rd August 2010 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Engine
Question: I have a 2002 jaguar s type, 4.0 L with the codes 705 and 125 coming up…what does this mean?
P0125 – Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0705 – Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
These codes are generic OBDII codes from the following site…
I would guess from the first code your coolant sensor is shot, or the
wiring is bad to the sensor. Â The second one related to the
transmission shifter location, which the sensor may be in the
transmission or the console where the shifter is. Â I don’t have a
Jaguar manual handy to tell you specifics. Â Alldata repair manuals are
an excellent source for this kind of specific info.
Posted: 22nd March 2010 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Drivetrain, Engine
I need the position of the rotor caps. I assumed they were indexed and did not note position upon removal twice. 1987 Porsche 928 S4 32v V8 (2) rotors on end of camshafts.
I dont have a specific procedure for your vehicle, but its pretty
much the same for any car. You first need to bring the engine to TDC
(top dead center) TDC is when cylinder #1 is at the top of the
compression stroke and the spark plug is ready to fire. You can pull
the spark plug from cylinder one, feel for compression by placing your
finger over the spark plug hole and turn the engine until the timing
mark comes up to TDC. The timing mark should be close to the
crankshaft pulley and is usually cast into the front cover. If you
dont feel air escaping the spark plug hole, you are coming up to the
top of the exhaust stroke, rotate the engine another 360 degrees and
you should then feel the compression.
Once you know you are at TDC, you can align the rotor so that it
points towards cylinder #1s plug wire. As for the other rotor cap,
you would need your firing order to determine which other cylinder is
firing at TDC.
Check out the following site for some specific instructions…
Posted: 18th October 2009 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Engine