Starter or Solenoid Bad?
Question:
Hey my question is when i go to start my vehicle i get nothing. Car is a 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass ciera SL With a 3.1 Liter V6. Engine does not turn over. And starter does not turn over. I am wondering how to find out if its the solenoid or starter or possibly the relay for the ignition.
Please respond asap.
Thank you for your assistance
Answer:
First step is to pull the battery out and test that. Make sure it has a full charge, and then use a battery load tester to check condition of the battery. Most garages and auto parts stores have a battery tester.
I would also check both battery terminals and cables to make sure you have a good connection. Cables can corrode from the inside and create problems. I have seen more starting issue due to cables, than a bad starter or solenoid.
Assuming that the battery and cables checks out, you can jump the terminals on the solenoid to see if the engine turns over. If it does, then there is a problem in the ignition switch or safety system (brake switch, or neutral/park safety switch)
If you do not feel comfortable jumping the solenoid posts, you can use a volt meter to check for voltage at the solenoid ignition connection (typically marked with an I on the post) to see if the ignition switch is sending current. If you have voltage, its more than likely a bad solenoid. If there is no voltage, then its in the ignition switch/safety loop mentioned above. If you have voltage at the solenoid, and hear the clicking of the solenoid moving the starter gear into the flywheel, but the starter does not spin, then its the starter itself.
Posted: 8th July 2009 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Electrical
Camaro Rear End Noises
Question:
Hey I drive a used 2000 Chevy Camaro which I purchased a few days ago. It drives very well other than 2 problems. The first is a humming noise that comes from the rear of the car when I am parked. If I rev the engine up, somtimes it goes away.
The other question is about a very very subtle bumping noise when I am breaking from the rear. It is so subtle that it could be the breaks rubbing,but sometimes it does it when i am slowing down without breaking. I know both of these may seem small, but as a new owner of this used vehicle every little thing sticks out to me.
Can you help me??
Thanks,
Wally
Answer:
Wally,
Sounds like something loose in the exhaust system, probably causing
both issues you are having. The exhaust system is hung from the
chassis with rubber bushings providing for a little bit of movement,
and noise reduction. These rubber pieces wear out over time and need
to be replaced. You can take it to an exhaust shop and let them look
at it, or simply turn up the tunes a little and forget about it ! If
it were me, I would use the problem as an excuse to the wife to get a
new performance exhaust system.
Posted: 8th July 2009 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Exhaust
Brake Bleeding Problems or Master Cylinder?
Question:
I own a 96 Chevy Cavalier and the breaks are bad, the pads are still good, we removed the air from the line, and it has great vacuum what else could be wrong?
Answer:
The master cylinder could be bad. How did you remove the air from the lines? With modern ABS systems, its usually best to use a pressurized or vacuum bleeder to make sure all the air is out. The old crack the bleeder and have a buddy push the pedal does not work as well as it used to. I would take it to a shop that has the proper bleeding equipment and have them get all the air out, if its still bad, then its more than likely the master cylinder.
Posted: 7th July 2009 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Brakes
Audi Brake Job
Question:
Hey Kevin,
I have a 2001 Audi A4 Quattro and I recently changed the rear pads. I bought Wagner brake pads which where the more expensive of the choices and now have a persistent squealing noise from the right rear pads. which occurs while driving and goes away when I brake and comes right back when I let off the brakes. I tried to sand the calipers and applied never seize and special spray lube but nothing seemed to work. Any suggestions would be great.
Answer:
When you changed the pads, did you screw in the caliper pistons, or just use a clamp to push the piston back in? On the Audis the piston must be screwed back into the caliper. Its possible there is not enough room for the pads to back off the rotor, it may be rubbing while the brakes are not applied. Also I dont know what you sanded on the caliper, but you may have damaged the caliper depending on how much and where you sanded it down. As with any brake job, cleaning the calipers and rotors is critical to no squeaks and should only be done with a spray on brake cleaner. ( no abrasives !)
Posted: 7th July 2009 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Brakes
Vacuum leak in brake booster.
Question:
Engine runs rough like missing on excelleration but when you apply the breaks the engine runs smooth for a moment. I am getting a code of egr low vaccume but have replaced the egr valve already.
Answer:
The code tells all. The EGR valve does not create vacuum, the engine
does, so the low vacuum code at the EGR valve is not pointing to a bad
EGR valve, but rather a low vacuum signal to the valve. Typically the
only way to have low vacuum, is to have a leak somewhere. The
improvement in engine performance when you apply the brakes tells me
that you brake booster is most likely the culprit when it comes to the
vacuum leak. Not typically a DIY project, your best bet would be to
take the vehicle to the dealer and have them confirm the diagnosis and
replace the brake booster.
Posted: 7th July 2009 | Author: Kevin Schappell | Category: Brakes, Engine
