Archive for the ‘Cooling’ Category

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Wednesday, August 16th, 2006

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Subaru Head Gasket or Waterpump?

Monday, March 17th, 2008

Question:

Kevin

My Subaru builds up presure and blows the top pipe even with the radiator cap is of and it sounds like the water is boiling in the block i pulled the thermastat out tested it its ok then put it back in then i changed the radiator because i thought it mite be blocked but it still does it im pretty sure it ant the head gasket or cracked head that is the problem there is no water in the oil or oil in the water but i think as a resalt of it getting so hot. i think or hope it mite be the water pump what do u think

Answer:

 

With the engine warm, when you rev the engine, does the water level in the radiator go down? This would be an indication that the water pump is working if the level drops when you rev the engine. (don’t take the cap off when the coolant is hot to avoid getting burned, take it off before you start the car). This won’t tell you if the water pump is leaking though, and won’t tell you if it’s working at higher RPM’s. Sometimes the vanes on the pump will separate from the shaft and will keep the pump from pumping coolant at higher RPM’s.

It could be the head gasket or a cracked head even if there is no oil in the water or water in the oil. The head gasket can leak between the combustion chamber and the coolant passage and create excessive pressure in the cooling system. Also if the head is cracked in the combustion chamber area, as the intake charge is compressed, it will leak into the coolant passages and pressurize the cooling system. The only way to tell is to pressurize each combustion chamber one at a time and look for bubbles in the radiator. This should tell you which cylinder the leak is at. Most compression testers can be hooked to an air compressor to perform this test.

 

 

Good Luck,

 

Kevin

Winter Car Care Tips

Wednesday, October 4th, 2006

It’s getting to be that time of year, time to break out the Halloween costumes and get ready for the cooler weather. Now is the time to start thinking about your car and what it needs to survive the bitter cold of winter.

The most critical and often overlooked part of your vehicle is the cooling system. Without the proper protection, your coolant can freeze in the winter temperatures and destroy your engine. The coolant in your engine is a mixture of water and anti-freeze, which is supposed to lower the freezing point of the coolant. If the ratio of water to anti-freeze is wrong, the coolant mixture will freeze. Since water is one of those goofy liquids that actually expands as is freezes, it can exert extreme forces on your engine and actually crack the engine block. You can check your coolant’s freeze point with a simple tool called a Ball-Type Tester. You suck up a little bit of coolant into the instrument and count the number of balls that float. Then using the legend on the tool, you can determine the freezing point. There are also testing strips available, which you dip into the coolant similar to a pregnancy test to check the freezing point. If your coolant is more than 2 years old or you have over 30,000 miles it should be changed regardless of the freezing point.

The last thing to check on your engine is the fuel system. A bottle of gas line anti-freeze should be run through the system before the first flake of snow falls. The gas line anti-freeze will absorb any residual moisture in the system and keep it from freezing your fuel lines. Water can get into your fuel tank from a bad batch of gasoline at your favorite gas station or a faulty gas cap.

Once your engine is protected, you should turn your attention to your tires. Check the tread depth and pressures before wintertime hits. The pressure in your tires can drop as the temperatures plummet. If your tires are getting worn, I would suggest replacing them to get the best traction in the winter months. You may even want to consider getting an inexpensive set of steel wheels with dedicated snow tires for the winter months. All-Season tires do every season well, but none of them excellent. By running a set of winter tires, you will get the best winter traction possible and keep your car on the road where it belongs.

Your paint will also need some protection from all the salt and chemicals on the road. Make sure wash your car well, and then apply a liberal coat of wax over the entire car. You can also wax your wheels if you have aluminum wheels, which will help to stop pitting and keep the wheels clean. The biggest mistake I see people make when washing a car is to not rinse their wash mitt or sponge, or rinsing it in the wash bucket. Make sure you rinse off the sponge or mitt outside the bucket with your hose. This will keep the dirt that you just wiped off the car from becoming sandpaper and you clean the rest of your car.

A good first aid kit is valuable any time of year, but what else should you have in your trunk? A good ice scraper, bag of salt or sand for traction and a blanket incase you are stranded and need to keep warm are all vital. If you have a rear wheel drive vehicle, extra weight in the trunk will help with traction. A bag of cement or sand can give you the needed traction in the winter months.

Good luck and safe driving,

Kevin Schappell

Car Overheating

Wednesday, July 5th, 2006

Question:

Kevin,

My 1987 ford mercury monarch sustained a broken heater hose, was towed into the garage and repaired. The mechanic ran the engine at idle for over an hour and declared it repaired and fit to drive. I drove the car about three miles, the engine light came on, the car overheated. I was towed back to the garage coolant was added again, no leaks were seen, the coolant was circulating, the engine was run for an hour, hose temp were 170 degrees and the car was test driven. Again I left the garage and again after 3 miles the car over heated and had to be re-towed to the garage. Can you give any help or explanation? The mechanic can’t explain.

Thanks for you help.

Jim

Answer:

Jim,

It could be a few things… The waterpump could be bad, even if the water is circulating at idle. The impeller could be loose on the shaft, and at higher engine speeds will not spin, thus causing your overheating since no water is being circulated. It could also be the belt, clogged radiator or extremely lean running condition, but my bet is on the waterpump.

Good Luck,

Kevin