Archive for June, 2006

Chrysler 300M Review

Wednesday, June 28th, 2006

Chrysler
300M
Review

If you want to ride in style and still have some power to blow by some imports, look at the Chrysler 300M. With the optional Hemi engine, you have a real powerhouse that will burn the tires from a stop light. Plenty of interior room, and classic styling make this car a winner in my book.

Get a Price Quote on a New Chrysler 300M
Get a Repair Manual for a Chrysler 300M
Owners Clubs Online
Get an Insurance Quote For Your Chrysler 300M
Vehicle Specifications


When shopping for an 300M online, it’s best to do your research first and find
out the true invoice price for the car. You can find invoice pricing at
websites like Edmunds.com

After you know the invoice price of your Chrysler, the next step is to get a
price quote. I use Invoice Dealers to get a price quote from a local dealer. This service puts
you in touch with a dealer in your area and most of the time results in the
lowest price without having to haggle on price. Once you get a price quote
you can compare it to invoice price and negotiate through email. This
keeps you out of the showroom and gives you the edge when negotiating.


Every owner should have a repair manual for their car, even if they never lift
a wrench on their car. AllData has a cool Online Repair Manual for your Chrysler 300M which has excellent indepth repair procedures, as well as Recall and TSB information. The Recall and TSB
information is very valuable for all car owners and could save you tons of money when taking your Chrysler in for Repair. If you would like to read more about TSB’s and Recall information please check out my TSB page.

When researching a new car, I find it best to look for owners groups where you can
ask questions before buying. You may find a lot of good information in
FAQ sections, Forums, or mailing lists. You will want to look for common
problems, what year is the best to buy, and how people are modifiying their
cars to make them their own. Following is a list of clubs specific to
the Chrysler 300M.


Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club - Cool club with an active forum to ask questions in.
300M Forum - Topix.net Forum
Chrysler Forums - General Chrysler Forum

Available
Trim Levels for the Chrysler 300M:

Special

Platinum Series

Base

Specifications:

Trim Level: Special

Pricing:

Invoice Price: $30,204 *
MSRP: $32,615 *
Destination Charge: $680
*

Dimensions:


Number of Doors: 4
Standard Seating: 5
Wheelbase:
113.00
Curb Weight (Manual Trans): No data
Curb Weight (Auto Trans): 3650
Front Leg Room: 42.20

Rear Leg Room: 39.10
Front Shoulder Room: 58.80
Rear Shoulder Room: 58.70

Warranty Information:

Basic Warranty: 36/36,000
Powertrain Warranty: 84/70,000
Rust Warranty: 60/100,000

Drivetrain Information:

Engine: Std. - 3.5L 255 hp V6(3518,255 @ 6500 RPM,258 @ 3900 RPM,24/SOHC,3.78 X 3.19,9.9:1,Gas/MPFI,No,No)
Displacement (Liters): 3.5
Horsepower: 255 @ 6500 RPM
Torque: 258 @ 3900 RPM
Valve Configuration: SOHC
Fuel Type: Gas
Turbocharger: No
Supercharger: No
Transmission: Std. - 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive

*All information is accurate for the 2004 Model
Year. For current pricing please check with Manufacturer or other
Research Sites online.

Arizona Automotive Training School College

Wednesday, June 28th, 2006


Do you live in Arizona and looking for an education in the automotive
field? I recently reviewed the Arizona Automotive Institute and checked out their automotive training courses. These guys are top notch and can get you into the auto repair field of your
choice and have been around since 1968. They offer job placement assistance, help with resumes, and part time jobs while you are attending school at their Arizona campus. If you need a place to live, they will help you find an apartment while you are learning your automotive trade.



Name:

Arizona
Automotive Institute


Address:
Glendale, AZ
Phone: See
Website
Toll Free:
See Website
Email:
Website:

Arizona
Automotive Institute


Programs Offered:Automotive Technology
(Diploma)
* Conventional and Computerized
Electrical Systems
* Fuel and Ignition Systems
* Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems
* Computerized Diagnostic Systems
* ASE Certification Preparation

Automotive/Autotronics
Technology

(Occupational Associate’s Degree)

* Conventional and Computerized
Electrical Systems
* Fuel and Ignition Systems
* Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems
* Advanced Computerized Diagnostic Systems
* Computer-Controlled Component Systems
* ASE Certification Preparation

Automotive/Diesel Technology
(Occupational Associate’s Degree)

* Conventional and Computerized
Electrical Systems
* Fuel and Ignition Systems
* Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems
* Computerized Diagnostic Systems
* Heavy Diesel Two- and Four-Stroke Engines
* Diesel Fuel Systems
* Heavy Truck Chassis Systems
* Diesel Hydraulic Systems
* ASE Certification Preparation

Heating, Ventilation,
Air Conditioning and Basic Refrigeration
(Diploma)

* Electrical Troubleshooting
* A/C Installation, Service and Repair
* Heating and Heat Pumps
* Refrigeration Units
* EPA Certification Preparation

Chevrolet Tahoe Review

Tuesday, June 27th, 2006

The new Chevrolet Tahoe is a capable family hauler and offroad vehicle. The
new styling is very cool and modern, with much sharper edges, and aggressive
styling. As with most Chevrolet SUV’s you can get a ton of options for the interior,
including memory seats, leather, rear entertainment system and Navigation. On
the test drive I took, I did not have much time to play with the navigation
system, but it appeared to be easy to operate. A cool option which comes
with the navigation, is the rear backup camera, which helps when backing out
of tight areas. It is also a safety feature when you have small kids in
the area.

Get a Price Quote on a New Chevrolet Tahoe
Get a Repair Manual for a Chevrolet Tahoe
Get an Insurance Quote For Your Chevrolet Tahoe
Vehicle Specifications


When shopping for an Tahoe online, it’s best to do your research first and find
out the invoice price for the car. You can find invoice pricing at websites such as Edmunds.com After you know the invoice price of your Chevrolet Tahoe, the next step is to get a price quote. I use Invoice Dealers to get a price quote from a local Chevrolet dealer. This service puts you in touch with a dealer in your area and most of the time results in the lowest price without having to haggle on price. Once you get a price quote you can compare it to invoice price and negotiate through email. This keeps you out of the showroom and gives you the edge when negotiating.


Every owner should have a repair manual for their car, even if they never lift a wrench on their car. AllData has a cool Online Repair Manual for your Audi which has excellent indepth repair procedures, as well as Recall and TSB information. The Recall and TSB information
is very valuable for all car owners and could save you tons of money when taking
your Audi in for Repair. If you would like to read more about TSB’s and
Recall information please check out my TSB page.

Available
Trim Levels for the Chevrolet Tahoe:

4WD

4WD

4WD

2WD

2WD

2WD

Specifications:

Trim Level: 4WD

Pricing:

Invoice Price: $32,550 *
MSRP: $37,200 *
Destination Charge: $850
*

Dimensions:


Number of Doors: 4
Standard Seating: 6
Wheelbase:
116.00
Curb Weight (Manual Trans): No data
Curb Weight (Auto Trans): 5050
Front Leg Room: 41.30

Rear Leg Room: 38.60
Front Shoulder Room: 65.20
Rear Shoulder Room: 65.10

Warranty Information:

Basic Warranty: 36/36,000
Powertrain Warranty: 36/36,000
Rust Warranty: 72/100,000

Drivetrain Information:

Engine: Std. - 4.8L 285 hp V8(4807,285 @ 5600 RPM,295 @ 4000 RPM,16/OHV,3.78 X 3.27,9.5:1,Gas/SEFI,No,No) | Opt. - 5.3L 295 hp V8(5328,295 @ 5200 RPM,330 @ 4000 RPM,16/OHV,3.78 X 3.62,9.5:1,Gas/SEFI,No,No) | Opt. - 5.3L 295 hp V8(5328,295 @ 5200 RPM,330 @ 4000 RPM,16/OHV,3.78 X 3.62,9.5:1,FFV/SEFI,No,No)
Displacement (Liters): 4.8
Horsepower: 285 @ 5600 RPM
Torque: 295 @ 4000 RPM
Valve Configuration: OHV
Fuel Type: Gas
Turbocharger: No
Supercharger: No
Transmission: Std. - 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive

*All information is accurate for the 2004 Model
Year. For current pricing please check with Manufacturer or other
Research Sites online.

Retrofitting your car’s A/C System

Tuesday, June 27th, 2006

I get a lot of questions from people wishing to retrofit their R-12 System
to work with the new R-134a refridgerant. I am no expect A/C guy but I
know some guys who are. The guys a www.autoACsystems.com
have written a great article on what is involved in a retrofit job.

Retrofitting auto A/C Systems
Up until the early 1990’s, all auto A/C Systems used a common refrigerant
known as
R-12 (Freon). It was relatively inexpensive and very efficient at transferring
heat. However, it was eventually discovered that R-12 (along with all other
CFC’s and some other substances) had a very sever negative impact on the
earth’s ozone layer. Therefore, R-12 had to be replaced as the preferred
refrigerant.

With most industrialized nations signing the Montreal Protocol (1987), the
elimination of R-12 was imminent. That created a lot of questions and concerns
within the industry. In addition to the concerns about finding a replacement
refrigerant, there was the issue of dealing with all the vehicle A/C systems
that were on the road already using R-12. This created even more questions and
concerns. In order to address all of those existing R-12 systems, it was decided
that they should be retrofitted to use another refrigerant. Once again, more
questions and concerns.

The purpose of this information is to provide you an objective overview of
all the factors that have to be considered when retrofitting your vehicle’s
A/C system. You may not be doing the retrofit yourself, but the information
will help you understand the potential problems and difficulties that can be
encountered. The details will also demonstrate that there really is no such
thing as a ‘closed system’ retrofit where you can just add a can
and go.

When should you retrofit your A/C System? As a general rule, it’s been
decided that for optimum cooling performance, any vehicle A/C system that was
designed to work on R-12 should be serviced with R-12 for as long as the supply
is available. As we move forward in time and supply shortages appear, it is
obvious that pricing will become a major factor in the decision. If you have
to retrofit, most aftermarket professionals feel that the best choice of refrigerants
is still R-134a, and usually only suggest alternative refrigerants when performance
problems are encountered with R-134a.

Some of the factors that have to be addressed when retrofitting the A/C system
include:

1) Changes in refrigerant oil
2) A/C System Flush
3) Change of drier or accumulator
4) Caution with condenser design
5) Caution regarding compressor
6) Cooling and/or cooling fan operation
7) Installation of HPCO (High Pressure Cut Out Switch)
8) Installation of charge port adapters
9) System Label

Changes in A/C refrigerant oil: As a rule, R-12 systems use mineral oil and
R-134a systems in new vehicles (OE Applications) will use PAG oils. For compatibility
issues, the industry moved to use Ester oil (POE) for retrofitting systems.
Ester oils were chosen because they were shown to be compatible with both the
mineral oil already in the system and the R-134a refrigerant about to be installed.
In recent years, new synthetic lubricants have been introduced that have proven
work well with all oils. They have shown excellent results, improved cooling
performance and have eliminated a lot of the confusion about which oil to use
and when.

Flushing the A/C System: This is usually done in order to remove as much of
the mineral oil (and any other contaminants) in the system as possible. It also
helps to assure against oil overcharging which can reduce cooling performance.
When the system is flushed, the proper amount of new oil can be added before
recharging. If your are considering retrofitting your a/c system because some
other component has failed (ie.: leaking evaporator, compressor failure, etc.)
the system should most certainly be thoroughly flushed.

Change of drier or accumulator: The drier or accumulator is the one part that
should always be replaced when retrofitting. First of all, it provides filtering
for the refrigerant and (most importantly) removes moisture. Doing a retrofit
without it would be like changing the engine oil and not changing the filter.
Secondly, new replacements will (almost always) be manufactured with either
XH-7 or XH-9 desiccant. These are compatible with R-134a while the desiccants
used in R-12 systems may not be compatible.

Caution with condenser designs: Although R-134a is an efficient refrigerant,
it is not as efficient as R-12. In many older R-12 systems (pre 1980), the original
condensers were manufactured in a round tube (usually 3/8” O.D.) and flat
fin design. These design configurations usually do not work well with R-134a,
and you may have to replace the condenser with a newer design configuration.
The replacement condenser should be either an aluminum serpentine design (which
incorporates all aluminum vacuum brazed construction) or a parallel flow design
that incorporates smaller tube diameters and higher cooling fin density. It
would not be wise to purchase the OE replacement condenser for your vehicle
as it will probably be the same tube and fin design you already have. Aftermarket
suppliers will be your best source.

Caution regarding compressors: In almost all cases, there should be no reason
to replace the compressor in order to complete the retrofit, unless it has already
failed. The only precaution is for older compressors that will (after retrofitting)
be operating at potentially higher pressures. The higher pressures could cause
other problems or potentially a complete failure. Other than those precautions,
it is good practice to remove the compressor and drain as much residual oil
out as possible. (Compressor can not be flushed)

Cooling and/or cooling fan operation: For applications that use belt driven
fans, it is important to be sure that fan clutches (if installed) are working
properly and that all fan shrouding is in tact. For applications with electric
cooling fans, it is important that they be checked so that they are engaging
at the proper time to help eliminate excess high pressure conditions. Additionally,
a general cooling system inspection is good practice. An overheating radiator
can (and will) reduce the ability of the condenser to dispel heat, causing excessive
high pressures.

Installation of HPCO (High Pressure Cut Out Switch): This is an excellent safety
mechanism that should be installed. The switches are usually designed to perform
a few functions. Most importantly, they will stop the compressor from coming
on if the system looses it’s charge, and they will also cause the compressor
to shut down (temporarily) should the system pressures get too high.

Installation of charge port adapters: Your system should have ‘retrofit
adapters’ installed on both the high and low side service ports. They
are generally inexpensive and allow R-134a manifold gauge sets to be attached
to the system (for charging and testing). They also provide an instant notification
to the next service technician that the system has already been retrofitted
to R-134a. Be cautious of the fact that many shops will install the adapters
for charging purposes and remove them when they are done. This practice is illegal
in most jurisdictions and should be frowned upon.

System Label: Each A/C system that has been retrofitted should be labelled,
identifying the new refrigerant. Additionally many of the labels allow for the
amount of new refrigerant charged. That is helpful because the total amount
of R-134a will be different from the total factory specified charge of R-12.

Although this information does not cover every example and possible problem
encountered when retrofitting an A/C system, it should provide you a good understanding
of all the factors that have to be addressed.

Click
Here to Learn More About Your Car’s A/C System

Clogged Catalytic Converter?

Monday, June 26th, 2006

Question:

Kevin,
I own a 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS. It has 130,000 miles on it. It appears to lose power when trying to accelerate when the engine is warm. For example, cruising on the interstate at 70 mph for a short time, engine at normal operating temperature, when I need to accelerate to pass the transmission down shifts, rpm increase, yet speed does not. I think my catalytic converter is becoming plugged. It does not seem to effect acceleration when the engine is cold. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bernie

Answer:

Sounds like the catalytic converter to me too. If this happens at night, pull off the road to a safe stop and pop the hood. Look at the catalytic converter and see if it’s glowing red. You may have to look under the car, and not under the hood to see it. I had an 86 Corvette that had the same problem and the headers and pipes before the converter would glow red due to the blockage. A technician can diagnose this problem too with a pressure check of the exhaust system before the converter. It will show high pressure before the converter if it’s clogged.
A bad O2 sensor could be to blame, but you should be getting a check engine light too. Also a clogged fuel filter may be causing a lean condition at the high speeds you are talking about. I would have it changed if it has not been as well as crawling under the car to look for the red hot converter.

Good Luck,

Kevin

Fixing Rust Spots Without Chemicals

Thursday, June 22nd, 2006

Question,

I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla and it’s started to get little tiny rust spots. I’ve read you post about removing rust but I wanted to know if that applies to my situation also. I’ve been told that I can just remove the rust with a flat head screwdriver and then use touch-up paint. Is that process acceptable? Any other suggestions that don’t involve chemicals?

Thanks,

Melissa

Answer:

I would not use a screwdriver. You can tape off the area around the rust spot, go 1/4″ past the rust and sand the area with some sandpaper. You can then prime and paint to keep the rust from coming back. Any auto parts store should have touchup paint and primer for your car. It’s best to take care of it ASAP so the rust does not spread.

Kevin

Chevrolet Suburban Review

Thursday, June 22nd, 2006

Chevrolet
Suburban
Review


I am currently driving a 2004 Suburban and nothing beats it for hauling the
kids around. I just came back from a vacation at the beach and found the
Suburban suited my needs for a family hauler. The gas mileage is sticking
around 17 MPG with a light foot on my part. If you drive aggressively,
expect to see around 15 MPG. I have the small V8 in my 4WD version and
it provides sufficient power. The interior has cloth seats which is not
the best with kids and spills, but the extra cost of leather made my decision.
The rear seat removed fairly easy, but it is very heavy for one person to handle.
With the rear seat removed there is plenty of room in the Suburban for hauling
anything you heart desires.


I am not one for big SUV’s but it sure beats a mini-van and with a family of
5, the Suburban one of the only choices. The new Tahoe’s look nice, but
the 3rd row seat is a little hard to get into and out of. The ride of
the Suburban is good which is to be expected of a large wheelbase SUV like this.
The tires are marginal, but do contribute to the nicer ride. My next set
of wheels and tires will be from The Tire Rack and I will probably go with 18″ or larger to get a nice look for the Suburban.

Included below are some
of my favorite links for my Suburban…

Get a Price Quote on a New Chevrolet Suburban
Get a Repair Manual for a Chevrolet Suburban
Shop For Suburban Auto Parts
Owners Clubs Online
Get an Insurance Quote For Your Chevrolet Suburban

Vehicle Specifications


When shopping for an Surburban online, it’s best to do your research first and
find out the true invoice price for the car. You can find invoice pricing
at websites like Edmunds.com After you know the invoice price of your Chevrolet Suburban, the next step is to get a price quote. I use Invoice Dealers to get a price quote from a local dealer. This service puts you in touch with a dealer in your area and most of the time results in the lowest price without having to haggle on price. Once you get a price quote you can compare it to invoice price and negotiate through email. This keeps you out of the showroom and gives you the edge when negotiating.


Every owner should have a repair manual for their car, even if they never lift
a wrench on their car. AllData has a cool Online Repair Manual for your Suburban which has excellent indepth repair procedures, as well as Recall and TSB information. The Recall and TSB information is very valuable for all car owners and could save you tons of money when taking
your Chevrolet in for Repair. If you would like to read more about TSB’s and Recall information please check out my TSB page.

When researching a new car, I find it best to look for owners groups where you can
ask questions before buying. You may find a lot of good information in FAQ sections, Forums, or mailing lists. You will want to look for common problems, what year is the best to buy, and how people are modifiying their cars to make them their own. Following is a list of clubs specific to
the Chevrolet Suburban.


CarDomain - Great place to check out what other suburban owners are doing to their rides.

Available
Trim Levels for the Chevrolet Suburban:

2500 2WD

2500 2WD

1500 4WD

1500 4WD

2500 4WD

2500 4WD

1500 2WD

1500 2WD

Specifications:

Trim Level: 2500 2WD

Pricing:

Invoice Price: $33,994 *
MSRP: $38,850 *
Destination Charge: $850
*

Dimensions:


Number of Doors: 4
Standard Seating: 9
Wheelbase:
130.00
Curb Weight (Manual Trans): No data
Curb Weight (Auto Trans): 5863
Front Leg Room: 41.30

Rear Leg Room: 39.10
Front Shoulder Room: 65.20
Rear Shoulder Room: 65.10

Warranty Information:

Basic Warranty: 36/36,000
Powertrain Warranty: 36/36,000
Rust Warranty: 72/100,000

Drivetrain Information:

Engine: Std. - 6.0L 325 hp V8(5967,325 @ 5200 RPM,365 @ 4000 RPM,16/OHV,4.00 X 3.62,9.4:1,Gas/SEFI,No,No) | Opt. - 8.1L 320 hp V8(8128,320 @ 4200 RPM,440 @ 3200 RPM,16/OHV,4.25 X 4.37,9.1:1,Gas/SEFI,No,No)
Displacement (Liters): 8.1
Horsepower: 320 @ 4200 RPM
Torque: 440 @ 3200 RPM
Valve Configuration: OHV
Fuel Type: Gas
Turbocharger: No
Supercharger: No
Transmission: Std. - 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive

*All information is accurate for the 2004 Model
Year. For current pricing please check with Manufacturer or other
Research Sites online.

Audi A4 Review

Wednesday, June 21st, 2006

Audi
A4
Information


You owe it to yourself to check out the Audi A4. My first Audi was a 2000
S4 which was fast, comfortable and the best all around car. While the
S4 was more of a sports car, the A4 is the perfect car for everyday life.
With a little more compliant suspension and a lot more affordable price tag,
the A4 is worth a look.

      If you live in a colder climate, you will appreciate the Quattro all wheel drive
system in the A4. The traction is amazing, but if you do a lot of winter
driving, I would recommend a dedicated set of snow/ice tires like those sold
by Bridgestone under the name Blizzak. Check out The Tire Rack for a wide
range of winter and summer tires.

The best part of owning an Audi is their service and warranty. I had a great experience with my car, and was always treated like a king. Of course your mileage may vary depending on your dealership,
but from what I have seen, the level of service comes from the top down, and
most dealerships strive for a top level of service. In your search for
a new Audi A4 I have included some additional information below…

Get a Price Quote on a New Audi A4
Get a Repair Manual for a Audi A4
Shop For Audi Auto Parts

Owners Clubs Online

Get an Insurance Quote For Your Audi A4
Vehicle Specifications


When shopping for an Audi online, it’s best to do your research first and find
out the true invoice price for the car. You can find invoice pricing at
websites like Edmunds.com After you know the invoice price of your Audi, the next step is to get a price quote. I use Invoice Dealers to get a price quote from a local dealer. This service puts
you in touch with a dealer in your area and most of the time results in the lowest price without having to haggle on price. Once you get a price quote you can compare it to invoice price and negotiate through email. This keeps you out of the showroom and gives you the edge when negotiating.


Every owner should have a repair manual for their car, even if they never lift a wrench on their car. AllData has a cool Online Repair Manual for your Audi which has excellent indepth repair procedures, as well as Recall and TSB information. The Recall and TSB information is very valuable for all car owners and could save you tons of money when taking your Audi in for Repair. If you would like to read more about TSB’s and Recall information please check out my TSB page.

When researching a new car, I find it best to look for owners groups where you can ask questions before buying. You may find a lot of good information in FAQ sections, Forums, or mailing lists. You will want to look for common problems, what year is the best to buy, and how people are modifiying their cars to make them their own. Following is a list of clubs specific to the Audi A4


A4 Group - Yahoo Autos Group
Nor Cal Audi Club - North California Audi Owners Group
AudiFans.net - General Audi Club
AudiFans.com - Good club with searchable Knowledge Base and FAQ
Audi Club North America - Founded in 1984, the Audi Club North America is the largest association of Audi owners in the world, with a membership of approximately 10,000 owners worldwide.

Available
Trim Levels for the Audi A4:

1.8 T quattro with Tiptronic

3.0 quattro

3.0 quattro with Tiptronic

3.0 quattro Cabriolet with Tiptronic

1.8 T

1.8 T with Multitronic

1.8 T Cabriolet

1.8 T quattro

3.0 Cabriolet

3.0

Specifications:

Trim Level: 1.8 T quattro with Tiptronic

Pricing:

Invoice Price: $26,279 *
MSRP: $28,800 *
Destination Charge: $720
*

Dimensions:


Number of Doors: 4
Standard Seating: 5
Wheelbase:
104.30
Curb Weight (Manual Trans): No data
Curb Weight (Auto Trans): 3550
Front Leg Room: 41.30

Rear Leg Room: 34.30
Front Shoulder Room: 55.10
Rear Shoulder Room: 53.40

Warranty Information:

Basic Warranty: 48/50,000
Powertrain Warranty: 48/50,000
Rust Warranty: 144/Unlimited

Drivetrain Information:

Engine: Std. - 1.8L 170 hp I4(1781,170 @ 5900 RPM,166 @ 1950 RPM,20/DOHC,3.18 X 3.40,9.3:1,Gas/SEFI,Yes,No)
Displacement (Liters): 1.8
Horsepower: 170 @ 5900 RPM
Torque: 166 @ 1950 RPM
Valve Configuration: DOHC
Fuel Type: Gas
Turbocharger: Yes
Supercharger: No
Transmission: Std. - 5-Speed Automatic Overdrive

*All information is accurate for the 2004 Model
Year. For current pricing please check with Manufacturer or other
Research Sites online.

The Basics of Performance Upgrades

Tuesday, June 13th, 2006

It’s every guys dream to have his car, truck or SUV go faster than the next. The problem is, there are no real good roadmaps for every car, and a lot of money can be wasted chasing a few extra horsepower.

Let’s look at a few common upgrades that can gain you some horsepower and earn you some respect on the road. The first upgrade that can make the most difference and make your car sound awesome is the exhaust system. Many aftermarket manufacturers are producing bolt-on exhaust systems, which can help free up 5 – 20 HP depending on how restrictive your factory exhaust is. Most systems replace the pipes and mufflers from the catalytic converter back. These are commonly called Cat-Back Systems and can be had for a price of $250 - $750 depending on materials used. Stainless steel pipes will cost you more, but will last a lot longer than plain steel. If you plan on keeping your car more than 50,000 miles or live in a state that uses salt on the roads during the winter, I would suggest stainless steel. I personally like the sound of Flowmaster Mufflers as well as Borla… your taste may vary.

The next most common way to free up some horsepower is a performance air filter. By helping your engine breath better, the air filter will help you get more air and fuel into the cylinder and thus make more power. Be aware that most aftermarket filters will require some kind of cleaning and maintenance to work properly. K&N is my favorite brand and has been around the scene for a long time.

Related to the air cleaner, a cold air intake relocates the air filter so your engine is breathing cool outside air instead of hot under hood air. Not all cars can benefit from this modification, as it’s sometimes hard to get the air filter in a position to scoop up that cooler outside air. Check at your local parts store to see if they have a cold air intake for your specific vehicle.

Your car came from the factory built for long life and easy maintenance. The engineers at the factory have programmed your engine computer to err on the safe side at the sacrifice of more power. Aftermarket companies now produce computer chips, which will alter your engine computer and help it run at peak efficiency. For a little more than $150 you can pick up 10 – 30 HP by just changing your engine computer chip. Not bad for about an hours worth of work.

The old saying, nothing beats cubic inches is still true today, but unfortunately the new cars available today no longer come with 426 Hemi engines under the hood. Most of today’s cars do not have the room for bigger engines, so what is a car guy to do? Turbo charging or super charging is the answer for today’s cubic inch challenged engines.

Normally aspirated engines use outside air to fill the combustion chamber. To maintain the proper air/fuel ratio to support combustion, the engine can only burn so much fuel dictated by the size of the cylinders. This is why a larger displacement engine can produce more power, since the cylinders are larger, they can burn more fuel. In a turbo or super charged engine, the air coming into the cylinder is compressed and thus contains more oxygen, therefore requiring more fuel to completely burn. This gives you an increase in power, without adding more size to the cylinders. If you can cram twice the air and fuel into the same cylinder, you have just doubled the displacement and power of your engine.

This is a very simple overview of how a turbo charger or supercharger works, and there are some downsides to both systems, but you can now see why this method of making horsepower is used commonly on today’s street machines. If you are interested in adding a turbo or super charger to your vehicle, check around and see what kits are readily available for your vehicle. Start at your local parts store, or on the Internet to do your research. It won’t come cheap, but you can add 50 – 150 HP in about a weekend’s time and have the fastest car on the block.

Life expectancy of turbo engine

Friday, June 9th, 2006

Question:

I am looking to buy a new car and have narrowed it down to 3. The Mazda3s Grand Touring, the GTI 2.0t, and the Honda Civic si. My last two car’s were tried and true Corolla’s. Both lasted longer than I would have expected (about 300,000) - but I want a change.

I’ve always steered clear of Turbo’d engines thinking that they either burn out over time, or burn the engine up just by their nature. But in all honesty all I know is the concept, and not the actual detail. With the high miles that I intend to put on a car in a short amount of time, should I discount the GTI due to the inevitable failure, or extra maintenance that may be involved in keeping it going?

–Jordan

Answer:

I think you have a valid concern about turbo charged engines, especially if you are looking to put on 300,000 miles. I would discount the GTI unless the extra performance outweighs the additional maintenance, that would be a personal decision.

If you do decide to go with the GTI, here are a few things to help it last longer… The bearings of the turbo charger are typically cooled with engine oil, so changing your oil at recommended intervals is very important, also letting the engine cool down before shutting it off, will allow the oil to cool some and not break down in the turbo and turn to sludge. I would also use synthetic oil in any engine, but especially in a turbo charged one.

There are turbo timers on the market which will keep the engine running for a set interval after you remove the key. I used one on my twin turbo Stealth with good luck, you just have to be careful where you park and use the emergency brake. Since you have to leave the car in neutral (if it’s a manual transmission) you are only relying on the emergency brake. If I had to park on a big hill, I would not leave the turbo timer on and rely on just the emergency brake to hold the car.

If you are looking to get 300,000 miles, I would also resist the urge to modify the engine in anyway to get more performance. A high flow filter or exhaust would be ok, but turning up the boost with a chip would not help the life of the turbo.

Also your driving style will dictate to some extent how long your turbo engine lasts. If you are putting on a lot of highway miles with a steady foot, you won’t be using the turbo that much and the life will be extended. If you are racing stoplight to stoplight, then I would be a little more concerned.

Good Luck in your decision,

Kevin