Archive for April, 2006

Auto Insight Learning Program

Friday, April 28th, 2006

Question:
I’m aware that you no longer carry the Auto Insight CD. Do you have any information on the company or where my school can purchase it. Thank you,
Doug

Answer:

Doug, the software has been sold to another company, and is not being sold to the public from what I know. You can find some of the information online at www.innerauto.com

Kevin

How not to get ripped off by your auto body shop.

Thursday, April 20th, 2006

I had a visitor contact me the other day to have me look at a repair bill.
She wanted me to review the charges and make sure she was not being ripped off.
It got me thinking about ways to make sure you are getting the best deal on
body work.

Here are a few tips to help you out when looking at an auto body repair estimate…

1. Check labor rates between shops. Body work should be around $30 - $60 per
hour depending on your location and the shop.

2. Most body shops use a computerized quoting system which uses standard rates
to complete jobs. This can be good or bad. Usually these numbers are inflated
to protect the shop from losing money on the job. If you find a shop that does
not use a computerized quotation system, be cautious. Get competetive quotes
from other shops and make sure the shop stands by their quote if it goes over
time.

3. Ask to see the parts which were replaced. Just like taking your car to a
mechanic, make sure they are actually replacing the parts on the quote, and
make sure they were truely damaged and needed to be replaced.

4. Ask questions ! A body shop quote can be very confusing, a good auto body
shop will spend the time to go over the quote and answer your questions. If
they do not, run away and find another shop.

5. When getting your car back from having body work done, inspect the car before
leaving the auto body shop. Inspect the paint work carefully and try to view
it under different light situations. A paint job which looks great in the bright
sunlight can look totally different in the shade or at night. I have had this
happen to me once, and ended up taking the car back to have it repainted.

Good Luck,

Kevin Schappell

Power Mirror Problems

Tuesday, April 18th, 2006

Question:
I have a mint condition F-150 (2001) SuperCrew. Hope you can help the the side
mirrors control no longer works. Can I fix this myself or do I need a dealer?

Thank You,
Tom

Answer:
Tom,

I would check the fuses first, there should be a diagram on the fuse panel
showing you which circuits are which. The side mirror controls are probably
grouped with the power window circuit or door locks.

If it’s not a bad fuse, then I would suspect the switch. Removing the door
panel and getting to the switch is not too hard, but you will have to be careful
when removing the inside door panel. I do not have specific instructions for
your truck, but typically you will need to remove some screws first around the
arm rest and possibly at the bottom of the door, then carefully pry the door
panel away from the door. The trick is to apply enough pressure to pop the clips
which hold the door panel on, but not break the plastic door panel.

You should be able to get the switch from the Ford dealer, a junkyard or possibly
a U-Pull-It Junkyard. Infact, if you have a U-Pull-It type junkyard in your
area, this may be a good way of practicing to remove that door panel ! You can
find a listing of junkyards at www.classicjunkyard.com/junkyards/

Good Luck,

Kevin

How To Learn About Cars

Friday, April 7th, 2006

Question:

Hi there, I’m Ann. I am tired of getting ripped off. Last week my 1970 Karmann Ghia VW stopped on me on the Freeway. I’ve had this car since 1997; and I just love it. A lot of people want to buy it. I had no idea it was a car that many people would want to use as a CLASSIC Project. I’ve been
using it to get around. I’ve had everything put in this car from new transmission to engine. You name it, I’ve had it put on my car. Since I’ve had the car for a while, I can just hear certain sounds and know that there is something wrong. Now last week when the car stopped on me, I knew it had to be something simple. AAA towed it to my house; I had a mechanic to come by the house and look at the car. Off the top, he was going to charge me $100 to tell me what was wrong. I called someone else over to the house to look at it because I felt this guy was trying to ripp me off so he could (PAY HIS BILLS). When this other mechanic finish looking at my car, he went over to his van, took out this piece of clapp, I can’t remember what he told me it was; that’s why I’m on line looking for some way to learn about this car, so I could do it myself. I’ve had it long enough, and I plan on not getting rid of it either. Do not want a car note. To make the long story short. He charged me $20 and left. I went to the parts store and saw this
little piece and it was around $3. I was so shocked. I told my husband we need to go to school for auto mechanics if we are going to keep these old cars. We could really save a lot of money. Now I want to know from you
WHERE DO I START? Do I need to take a auto mechanics class or go to school or will this online serve the purpose. I want to tune up my VW and change the oil.

Answer:

I would search for an online VW club that specializes in older VW’s. There may even be a Gia club in your area. This type of club can be a big help, and you may find some members who would help you learn more about your car. Typically the clubs have an online forum where you can ask questions, plus monthly gathering where you can show off your cars.

As for a manual, check with AllData and see if they cover back to 1970. If not, then a paper Haynes or Chilton manual would be the best bet for your car. These manuals usually have step-by-step instructions for most maintenance items. A local vo-tech may have a night course in auto maintenance which would be a good bet for you and your husband. I can tell you though, that if you find a fellow car club member, they can teach you just as much if not more than the classes, and it will be specific to you Ghia. We now offer a directory of Vo-tech Schools and Technical Colleges where you can get an eduction.
http://www.autoeducation.com/schools

Good Luck,
Kevin

Engine Oil Viscosity

Friday, April 7th, 2006

Question:

Dear Kevin,

My name is Dan. I am an amsoil dealer. I was at a county fair and a guy came up to me, must have thought I needed an education. He said that oil gets thicker in viscosity, When it gets hot, because the molecular makeup. WHAT is this guy saying? He said that is why multi- viscosity oil has two numbers. I was told by another, that the viscosity rating is based on the gaps in the engine crank bearings. This came about by racers having there engine tested by engine manufactures. Can you shed some light on this for me. Personally I think their full of it.

Dan

Answer:

http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

The first guy is right ! Your engine needs the thinner oil when it’s cold and the thicker oil when it’s hot. They do have additives that make the oil thicker as the engine heats up.

Kevin

Hard water and water spots when washing your car

Friday, April 7th, 2006

Kevin I, like you, have a need to wash in the most careful way. I use towels, and dry same, in the household dryer with out any smell good agent. Each is washed with no souap, in warm water after each use. My 2003 SSR black, needs 6 to 8 towels after each wash. Question ? we are in a hard water system, have you heard of any method ie filters to run the rinse system thru to clean the water of lime, metals and or other factor which do cause water stains? Automoblie dealers have systems to treat the water, but these systems cost many bucks. Looking for a treatment system at the wash point hose ..

John

Answer:

John you are in luck, check out the Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash system.

Mr. Clean Website

You can find it at most auto parts stores if you don’t want to buy online.

Happy Washing,

Kevin Schappell

Selling a Junk Car

Friday, April 7th, 2006

Question:

Hi there,

I ran across your site in a google search because I’m trying to get rid of my junk 1993 BMW 325i. I don’t want it and the insurance costs are high-well higher than what I want to pay. Anyway, the car has some minor rust setting in and some body damage and steering problems. After surveying my car at kbb.com (kelly’s blue book), it got a “fair” rating, although I think it’s pretty poor.

My car is something that I wouldn’t want to buy but I would like to get rid of it and get some sort of money for it. I’m wondering the best way to go about it, really. How can I say let’s say a “junk car”? Do you know of any resources I can use that refer to buying beat up or well-used cars? Please let me know if you have any advice to offer me about this inquiry. I could certainly use the assistance. Thanks for your time.

-Ken

Answer:

You can check out www.classicjunkyard.com which is a site I run also. You can list the car for parts, or sell the whole thing. I would also check out Ebay and consider listing it there. I would advertise it locally as a “bodymans special” or mechanics special and see what kind of interest it brings. I would think that you will get a younger kid who would be happy to have something to wrench on. It’s a popular model, and would be a cool custom with the addition of a body kit and a nice set of wheels.

Good Luck,

Kevin

Carburetor Rebuild Kit and Leaking Head Gasket

Friday, April 7th, 2006

Question:

Hi, I was wondering why fuel is leaking out of my carburetor? When it is running it started as a drip at first and now it is leaking heavily. Would a carburetor kit fix that problem? And what comes in the kit?

Another question is, is it normal for oil to be in my radiator or is there a serious problem that needs attended to right away. i have a 1986 Ford Ranger pickup it has A 2.0 4 cylinder engine i barrel carburetor please help any help would be appreciated thanks.

Answer:

A rebuild kit may help, but the leak may be from a crack in the carb too. I would remove the carb, look for any broken or leaking gaskets. Sometimes there are plugs in the bottom of the carb which can come loose. Carb kits usually have gaskets, float, needle and seat. If you floats are leaking, or the seat is worn, it will cause a flooding condition and you will see fuel leaking.

Oil in the radiator, indicates a leaking head gasket. I would get it checked/fixed ASAP before it turns into more of a problem. A competent mechanic can do a compression test and check for a bad head gasket.

Good luck,

Kevin

Rust Removal or Treatment

Friday, April 7th, 2006

Question:

Hi Kevin,
Enjoyed the read, just a quick question i a have a 1992 honda prelude 2.2vtec si. Is the engine an interferance engine. Can you also tell me how to treat rust from the inside of body work.

Many thanks,

Andy M.

Answer:

Yes, Your engine is an interference engine.

Rust is tough to get rid of, the best way is to cut it out and weld in new metal. If you can not do that, a rust converting product can help stop it from spreading. The rust converting liquid will convert the rust and leave a coating ready to paint. Check out www.Eastwood.com for their rust treatment products. I would undercoat the area after it is treated to prevent any future rust from starting.

Kevin Schappell

Bent Valves and How to Diagnose

Friday, April 7th, 2006

Question:

Hey Kevin,
I have a 1990 mitsubishi ecl. 2.0l l4 turbo ic fi.
Would the car start and or idle if the valves were
bent.

Thankyou,
Pam

Answer:

It is possible for the valves to be bent and the engine still run. It probably would not run very strong, but it could run and idle. The best way to check for bent valves, would be to have your mechanic run a compression test and see if there is air leaking past the valves. If the valves are bent, the mechanic will be able to hear air leaking into the exhaust or intake, depending on which valves are bent.

Kevin Schappell