June 28th, 2006
Do you live in Arizona and looking for an education in the automotive
field? I recently reviewed the Arizona Automotive Institute and checked out their automotive training courses. These guys are top notch and can get you into the auto repair field of your
choice and have been around since 1968. They offer job placement assistance, help with resumes, and part time jobs while you are attending school at their Arizona campus. If you need a place to live, they will help you find an apartment while you are learning your automotive trade.
Name:
Arizona
Automotive Institute
|
Address:
Glendale, AZ |
Phone: See
Website |
Toll Free:
See Website |
Email:
|
Website:
Arizona
Automotive Institute
|
Programs Offered:Automotive Technology
(Diploma) * Conventional and Computerized
Electrical Systems
* Fuel and Ignition Systems
* Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems
* Computerized Diagnostic Systems
* ASE Certification Preparation
Automotive/Autotronics
Technology
(Occupational Associate’s Degree)
* Conventional and Computerized
Electrical Systems
* Fuel and Ignition Systems
* Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems
* Advanced Computerized Diagnostic Systems
* Computer-Controlled Component Systems
* ASE Certification Preparation
Automotive/Diesel Technology
(Occupational Associate’s Degree)
* Conventional and Computerized
Electrical Systems
* Fuel and Ignition Systems
* Brakes, Steering and Suspension Systems
* Computerized Diagnostic Systems
* Heavy Diesel Two- and Four-Stroke Engines
* Diesel Fuel Systems
* Heavy Truck Chassis Systems
* Diesel Hydraulic Systems
* ASE Certification Preparation
Heating, Ventilation,
Air Conditioning and Basic Refrigeration (Diploma)
* Electrical Troubleshooting
* A/C Installation, Service and Repair
* Heating and Heat Pumps
* Refrigeration Units
* EPA Certification Preparation |
Posted in Automotive Schools | No Comments »
June 27th, 2006
I get a lot of questions from people wishing to retrofit their R-12 System
to work with the new R-134a refridgerant. I am no expect A/C guy but I
know some guys who are. The guys a www.autoACsystems.com
have written a great article on what is involved in a retrofit job.
Retrofitting auto A/C Systems
Up until the early 1990’s, all auto A/C Systems used a common refrigerant
known as
R-12 (Freon). It was relatively inexpensive and very efficient at transferring
heat. However, it was eventually discovered that R-12 (along with all other
CFC’s and some other substances) had a very sever negative impact on the
earth’s ozone layer. Therefore, R-12 had to be replaced as the preferred
refrigerant.
With most industrialized nations signing the Montreal Protocol (1987), the
elimination of R-12 was imminent. That created a lot of questions and concerns
within the industry. In addition to the concerns about finding a replacement
refrigerant, there was the issue of dealing with all the vehicle A/C systems
that were on the road already using R-12. This created even more questions and
concerns. In order to address all of those existing R-12 systems, it was decided
that they should be retrofitted to use another refrigerant. Once again, more
questions and concerns.
Posted in Heat & AC | No Comments »
June 26th, 2006
Question:
Kevin,
I own a 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS. It has 130,000 miles on it. It appears to lose power when trying to accelerate when the engine is warm. For example, cruising on the interstate at 70 mph for a short time, engine at normal operating temperature, when I need to accelerate to pass the transmission down shifts, rpm increase, yet speed does not. I think my catalytic converter is becoming plugged. It does not seem to effect acceleration when the engine is cold. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bernie
Answer:
Sounds like the catalytic converter to me too. If this happens at night, pull off the road to a safe stop and pop the hood. Look at the catalytic converter and see if it’s glowing red. You may have to look under the car, and not under the hood to see it. I had an 86 Corvette that had the same problem and the headers and pipes before the converter would glow red due to the blockage. A technician can diagnose this problem too with a pressure check of the exhaust system before the converter. It will show high pressure before the converter if it’s clogged.
A bad O2 sensor could be to blame, but you should be getting a check engine light too. Also a clogged fuel filter may be causing a lean condition at the high speeds you are talking about. I would have it changed if it has not been as well as crawling under the car to look for the red hot converter.
Posted in Exhaust | 1 Comment »
June 22nd, 2006
Question,
I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla and it’s started to get little tiny rust spots. I’ve read you post about removing rust but I wanted to know if that applies to my situation also. I’ve been told that I can just remove the rust with a flat head screwdriver and then use touch-up paint. Is that process acceptable? Any other suggestions that don’t involve chemicals?
Thanks,
Melissa
Answer:
I would not use a screwdriver. You can tape off the area around the rust spot, go 1/4″ past the rust and sand the area with some sandpaper. You can then prime and paint to keep the rust from coming back. Any auto parts store should have touchup paint and primer for your car. It’s best to take care of it ASAP so the rust does not spread.
Kevin
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Posted in Body | No Comments »
June 13th, 2006
It’s every guys dream to have his car, truck or SUV go faster than the next. The problem is, there are no real good roadmaps for every car, and a lot of money can be wasted chasing a few extra horsepower.
Let’s look at a few common upgrades that can gain you some horsepower and earn you some respect on the road. The first upgrade that can make the most difference and make your car sound awesome is the exhaust system. Many aftermarket manufacturers are producing bolt-on exhaust systems, which can help free up 5 – 20 HP depending on how restrictive your factory exhaust is. Most systems replace the pipes and mufflers from the catalytic converter back. These are commonly called Cat-Back Systems and can be had for a price of $250 – $750 depending on materials used. Stainless steel pipes will cost you more, but will last a lot longer than plain steel. If you plan on keeping your car more than 50,000 miles or live in a state that uses salt on the roads during the winter, I would suggest stainless steel. I personally like the sound of Flowmaster Mufflers as well as Borla… your taste may vary.
The next most common way to free up some horsepower is a performance air filter. By helping your engine breath better, the air filter will help you get more air and fuel into the cylinder and thus make more power. Be aware that most aftermarket filters will require some kind of cleaning and maintenance to work properly. K&N is my favorite brand and has been around the scene for a long time.
Posted in Engine, Exhaust | No Comments »
